From Rome To Anacapri
From Rome we caught a train south to Napoli; a journey of some 2.5 hours. It is an easy trip, comfortable and smooth. The train system in Italy is extensive and generally efficient- at least in our experience. We shared our train trip with an American family who were on their way to Pompeii. They had a strong interest in antiquities and the conversation helped to make the journey pass quickly. From Stazione Garribaldi in Napoli, we took a short but frenzied taxi ride through the streets of Napoli to the ferry terminal to connect with the hydrofoil for our trip across to Capri. As we scrambled to latch up our seat belts, the driver informed us not to bother. Driving in Naples suggests otherwise. The reputation of Napoli is not enhanced by the way the driver charged us 25 Euros for such a short trip. No meter in the cab, didn’t help our cause. The ferry ride was a little rough with the swell creating a some rock and roll. Walking around was a challenge. Most people stayed seated throughout the 50 minute journey. A small boy vomited over his Nona as we neared the end of the trip. She calmly accepted her fate and tried to re-assure the distraught child that this was merely a temporary malfunction. Papa arrives and cleans up both the victims with measured application of tissues.
Alighting at Capri’s Marina Grande, we became embroiled in a chaotic harbour side crush. The popularity of this island makes for many day tripping visitors. The boats arrive almost simultaneously and the rush of those wishing to leave Capri collides with those of us wishing to alight. The narrow dockside is no match for the charging throng of people attempting to move in opposing directions. Human gridlock is the only possible outcome. This has the characteristics of a stampede! The situation calls for organization and order, but there is none! Vicki and I find ourselves in the middle of this crush, dragging our suitcases and bags, along with others here for extended periods. The oncoming day-trippers have no such things to slow them up and so they push and shove and rush forward and then complain when a suitcase wheel runs across their feet. For a while I completely lose sight of Vicki as she struggles for space when a woman in a garish orange dress elbows her way past. Patience doesn’t live here, but rudeness and arrogance abound. There is no one in charge here. The ferry operators stay safely on board and beckon to the masses to board. Along with the British we are trained to keep to the right, Americans attempt to keep to the right, Europeans appear to favour both directions and the Japanese charge en=masse. The result is chaos! It is exactly how the United Nations operates. The situation here is potentially dangerous and it baffles me why nothing has been done before now to rectify such a preventable outcome.
We eventually emerge into the daylight after a lengthy struggle. Our arms seem longer from dragging our luggage against the tide. We fall into the waiting arms of a taxi driver who is willing to charge us 25 Euros to drive up to Anacapri. To escape this madness, it’s probably worth it!
Capri displays a rugged mostly inaccessible coastline. From Marina Grande, the road inclines steeply up to Central Capri, where it plateaus out before rising steeply again towards Anacapri. The road winds up and around, hugging the cliff and providing breathtaking views along with vertigo as the road takes a course perilously close to the edge. Anacapri
Capri has been a holiday destination for centuries. The Emperor Augustus was an early fan and set up several villas .The ‘blue island’ is renowned as the Queen in the bay of Naples. From June to September each year up to 6000 day trippers arrive from Naples and the Amalfi coast. They join the approximately 15000 permanent residence of the island on 10 sq.km. Capri did not have a proper port until 1931. From the experience we had upon our arrival, it still doesn’t!
We are staying at ‘Pino’ Carlo and Teresa’s cottage by the sea. The name ’Pino’ derives from Fortino del Pino a British built fortification built during the Napoleonic Wars. The island has many of these installations dotted around its coastline. Carlo’s father was a builder and the cottage is one of his inspirations. Pino is situated about 10 minutes beyond Ana Capri. You access it by bus. The road descend downwards towards the coast and ends at the Punta Carena lighthouse. Each day we take the bus back into Anacapri to shop, socialize, or wander through the historical centre of the town. We were surprised how attuned to tourism Anacapri was. We were aware of Capri being a tourist mecca from our previous day trip in 2005, but the tourist focus has clearly spread across the entire island. Carlo and Teresa live above Ana Capri with a view across the town itself and towards the sea.
From our base at Pino, we can walk down the road to the lighthouse which also has ocean swimming when the sea is calm, a salt water pool and three ristorante’s. All are close to the sea front. In fact, one of them could not be any closer. The walk back from the lighthouse is challenging. You can choose from the steep narrow road shared by cars, buses and motorbikes, or you can take the track through the forest and climb thousands of steps. This track emerges right next to Pino. We choose the track and found we needed to stop periodically for a breather. In the warm afternoon temperatures, the incline saps energy surprisingly quickly. The view once you reach a reasonable elevation is stunning. A glance back to the lighthouse or a view overlooking the rugged coast and across the sea, make for great viewing. Along the track signposts inform us of the local flora and fauna. The rare, but beautiful Swallowtail butterfly that lives on wild fennel leaves would be something to see, but then we pass a sign that informs us of the presence of the Black Whip Snake which grows up to two metres and is aggressive (according to the sign) It is non-venomous, but gives a nasty bite. We hurry on…
Alighting at Capri’s Marina Grande, we became embroiled in a chaotic harbour side crush. The popularity of this island makes for many day tripping visitors. The boats arrive almost simultaneously and the rush of those wishing to leave Capri collides with those of us wishing to alight. The narrow dockside is no match for the charging throng of people attempting to move in opposing directions. Human gridlock is the only possible outcome. This has the characteristics of a stampede! The situation calls for organization and order, but there is none! Vicki and I find ourselves in the middle of this crush, dragging our suitcases and bags, along with others here for extended periods. The oncoming day-trippers have no such things to slow them up and so they push and shove and rush forward and then complain when a suitcase wheel runs across their feet. For a while I completely lose sight of Vicki as she struggles for space when a woman in a garish orange dress elbows her way past. Patience doesn’t live here, but rudeness and arrogance abound. There is no one in charge here. The ferry operators stay safely on board and beckon to the masses to board. Along with the British we are trained to keep to the right, Americans attempt to keep to the right, Europeans appear to favour both directions and the Japanese charge en=masse. The result is chaos! It is exactly how the United Nations operates. The situation here is potentially dangerous and it baffles me why nothing has been done before now to rectify such a preventable outcome.
We eventually emerge into the daylight after a lengthy struggle. Our arms seem longer from dragging our luggage against the tide. We fall into the waiting arms of a taxi driver who is willing to charge us 25 Euros to drive up to Anacapri. To escape this madness, it’s probably worth it!
Capri displays a rugged mostly inaccessible coastline. From Marina Grande, the road inclines steeply up to Central Capri, where it plateaus out before rising steeply again towards Anacapri. The road winds up and around, hugging the cliff and providing breathtaking views along with vertigo as the road takes a course perilously close to the edge. Anacapri
Capri has been a holiday destination for centuries. The Emperor Augustus was an early fan and set up several villas .The ‘blue island’ is renowned as the Queen in the bay of Naples. From June to September each year up to 6000 day trippers arrive from Naples and the Amalfi coast. They join the approximately 15000 permanent residence of the island on 10 sq.km. Capri did not have a proper port until 1931. From the experience we had upon our arrival, it still doesn’t!
We are staying at ‘Pino’ Carlo and Teresa’s cottage by the sea. The name ’Pino’ derives from Fortino del Pino a British built fortification built during the Napoleonic Wars. The island has many of these installations dotted around its coastline. Carlo’s father was a builder and the cottage is one of his inspirations. Pino is situated about 10 minutes beyond Ana Capri. You access it by bus. The road descend downwards towards the coast and ends at the Punta Carena lighthouse. Each day we take the bus back into Anacapri to shop, socialize, or wander through the historical centre of the town. We were surprised how attuned to tourism Anacapri was. We were aware of Capri being a tourist mecca from our previous day trip in 2005, but the tourist focus has clearly spread across the entire island. Carlo and Teresa live above Ana Capri with a view across the town itself and towards the sea.
From our base at Pino, we can walk down the road to the lighthouse which also has ocean swimming when the sea is calm, a salt water pool and three ristorante’s. All are close to the sea front. In fact, one of them could not be any closer. The walk back from the lighthouse is challenging. You can choose from the steep narrow road shared by cars, buses and motorbikes, or you can take the track through the forest and climb thousands of steps. This track emerges right next to Pino. We choose the track and found we needed to stop periodically for a breather. In the warm afternoon temperatures, the incline saps energy surprisingly quickly. The view once you reach a reasonable elevation is stunning. A glance back to the lighthouse or a view overlooking the rugged coast and across the sea, make for great viewing. Along the track signposts inform us of the local flora and fauna. The rare, but beautiful Swallowtail butterfly that lives on wild fennel leaves would be something to see, but then we pass a sign that informs us of the presence of the Black Whip Snake which grows up to two metres and is aggressive (according to the sign) It is non-venomous, but gives a nasty bite. We hurry on…
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